Phewa Tal Lake, Pokhara

 

Nepals answer to Captain Birdseye

A paddle across the Phewa lake only costs about a pound. 

The World Peace Pagoda, Pokhara

 

Beautiful Pokhara!

A fantastic place to relax before and after trekking. 

View from the International Mountain Museum, Pokhara

 
 

Around Pokhara

As part of the post trekking relaxation Des decided to have a mooch round Pokhara. A Nepali guide in the Annapurnas had mentioned the International Mountain Museum was worth a look which was handy as it is not advertised or featured in any guidebooks. The museum turned out to be very good and covered aspects of Nepali cultural diversity (which was mind bogglingly complicated to Des), Nepals most famous peaks especially Sagarmartha (Everest) and the other 8000 metre mountains, expeditions, mountaineering equipment, geology and ecology. Being a bit of an anorak, Fowler spent quite a few hours looking round before security ushered him out for loitering. From there it was a modest walk to the Devi Falls - which are pretty good in the monsoon - but a tad disappointing in the winter. From Devi it was an hours walk to the World Peace Pagoda - which offers fine views on the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, as well as Pokhara itself. The steep walk to the Pagoda reminded Des of the walk up to Chommrong during the Sanctuary Trek - on this stretch Ollie counted several hundred steps to the top and guesstimated there were 2000 to 3000, ouch... To get back to Pokhara is a short boat journey on the lake - which was very pleasant and gave another perspective on the attractive scenery.

Pokhara to Annapurna Sanctuary

The slightly knackered duo of Burdett and Fowler clambered aboard the Green Line bus to Pokhara. After the Kakkerbhitte experience Fowler declared another false economy so they went slightly more upmarket. A very pleasant journey followed and a dal baht at the riverside spring resort halfway was just what the doctor ordered. Getting into Pokhara the usual mob of touts appeared - but the pair were heading to the Nirvana Guesthouse on a recomendation so the hotel owners had little joy. Pokhara is a very beautiful place with a huge lake one side (Phewa) and the huge Annapurna range (the aim of the trek) just to the North East. Hotel was nice and the pair thought it would be good to have a warm up trek from Sarangkot to Pokhara which would also hopefully offer some good mountain views. Sarangkot was good although was more like a military look-out than a touristy view point. The mini trek went well and it was great to see many paragliders floating down the mountains amongst the one or two eagles that were soaring around.

The next day, permits for the Annapurna Sanctuary trek were purchased and it was soon time to embark. Another early start at about 5:30am was made amongst last minute preparations. Trying to make a backpack as light as possible while still having enough kit for potentially 10 or 11 days was quite tricky - but the pair were glad they made the weight reductions as some of the climbs that were to come really did make for hard work.

Syauli Bazaar, Day 5

Despit Ollies knee worsening the pair made haste for Nayapul before dusk. They made it, just about, and managed to hop on a bus back to Pokhara. Clean clothes, a hot shower and a slap up meal at Cafe Concerto were the order of the day. 

View from Chhomrong, Day 5

After an entertaining diner with an Israeli and his Nepali guide the pair got some good rest at Sinuwa and made it to Chhomrong fairly quick. They walked with a nice chap called Peter who was 2 years into cycling his way to Australia (obviously for this bit he was walking). 

Sunset at Sinuwa, End of Day 4

The pair were making good progress but Ollies knee was starting to smart a little. The pair thought it would be good to make a fairly straight forward route back to civiilsation. 

Ordnance Survey has nothing on this

These maps were occasionally useful but the walking times seemed to be very misleading. 

Modi valley on the way back down, near Dovan, Day 4

 

Lets get cracking!

 

Leaving the Sanctuary, Day 4

Ollie (at the bottom, slightly left of middle) sniffs out the trail like a pedigree blood hound.

The night at ABC was spent playing chess, crib, drinking hot chocolate and trying to keep warm. 

Sanctuary

It was impossible to get bored of the Sanctuary - you are completely surrounded by a cathedral of mountains - constantly changing colour and character. 

Annual silly hat day at ABC

In the lower background is a huge glacier followed by the Khangsar Kang (7485 metres)I think.ABC was well below freezing and getting up for day break was especially difficult, but the pair managed it. The first thing they found was that the water bottle in their room had frozen. Fowler then discovered that his toothpaste was frozen also! 

From Dusk Till Dawn

Another metamorphosis of the Sanctuary mountains. 

The Annapurna Sanctuary at dusk

An striking purple takes over the sky as the moon appears. 

Sunset and sunrise in the Sanctuary were breathtaking

 

View of Machhapuchhre (Fish Tail, 6993 metres) from ABC

This mountain has never been climbed and the Nepali government has stopped any permits for expeditions (a measure in part to keep the mountain free of rubbish) so it may never be attempted. 

Almost there! Day 3

ABC (Annapurna Base Camp) lies in the distance under the Baraha Shikhar (Fang) mountain, 7647 metres. 

Looking back down the Modi valley, Day 3

It was starting to get pretty cold by now. Ollie takes a well earned rest before the final push to Annapurna Base Camp. 

Two mugs and a mountain (Annapurna 1 I think, 8091 metres), M.B.C, Day 3

Fowler was pleased that even at 3700 metres and going strong for the top, there was still time for a nice cup of tea.

MBC is the Machhapuchhre Base Camp. The friendly owner of this guest house told us about his families exploits in the British Army as Gurkhas and some of the mountaineers who have stayed at his house only never to be seen ever again, a reminder to be careful. Surprised about how fast we were doing the trek he thought we were in the army also, which made the pair quite smug. 

Machhapuchhare lies in the distance, Day 2

Fields give way to scrub and the occasional bamboo forest as the scenery taks another twist as the altitude gets on for 2000 metres. 

Jhinu Danada to Himalayan Hotel, Day 2

The path to the Annapurna Base Camp is a well beaten track. The main source of difficulty are the climbs and the cows. Here the cows form a pincer movement thus creating a tricky chicane. Burdett and Fowler were able to cunningly "side step" the danger and continue their journey. 

The M&S swimwear collection, Jhinu Danda, End of Day 1

The hot springs at Jhinu Danda (1750 metres)were both surreal and fantastic. After 8 hours walking the 104 degree F baths were an absolute god send - and lay next to a raging river. The pair checked into the Tibet Guest House here and sat round the fire with the friendly owners and mulled over the days trekking. Surprised at the good trekking progress the Nepalis asked if the lads were in the British Army.

Des gives the Nepali Bridge Building Society the thumbs up, New Bridge, Day 1